Paganella

The lighthouse of Trentino

The Paganella group, with its rounded peak reaching 2125 metres, is one of the most recognizable peaks in all of Trentino. The north and west slopes descend gently into the valley, hosting numerous ski slopes, while the east and south-east faces plunge dizzily with heights ranging from 100 to 370 metres, creating a spectacular and wild landscape.
The Roda, the heart of Paganella, stands majestically with its rounded shape, dominated by television antennas and repeaters. To the north, the rocky spur of the Spaloti di Fai challenges the sky, while to the south the Sperone Vettorato and the Sperone Annetta dominate.
The climbing routes on Paganella are now numerous, and the itineraries, some of which are extremely daring, cross every side of the mountain. These routes, signed by the most illustrious names in Trentino mountaineering, tell stories of challenges and conquests, reflecting the passion and courage of the young mountaineers who traced them. Although well known and nearby, the Paganella should not be considered just a climbing gym: the length of some routes and the commitment required make them authentic mountain ascents, true Alpine adventures that promise unforgettable emotions.
On 20 May 1922, three pioneers of mountaineering opened the first climbing route on the Roda, today used as the Normal route. Ten years later, in September 1932, the Via Diretta was born, traced by other legendary mountaineers. This route, even today, represents a fascinating challenge: the old pegs tell of bygone eras, but the well-equipped belays, some even with a bolt, guarantee safety and stability.
Paganella, with its imposing rocks and the history that breathes in every ravine, continues to attract and fascinate mountain enthusiasts, offering extraordinary adventures among its dizzying walls and its glorious past.
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